As she approaches the 20-year anniversary of her namesake label, California designer Heidi Merrick reflects on two decades of independent creative devotion, unwavering craftsmanship, and a distinctly personal aesthetic. Known for her sculptural ease, architectural silhouettes, and a sensibility rooted deeply in the California landscape, Merrick has built her brand with drive, ambition, without shortcuts, and without losing her point of view.
We sat down with the designer to talk longevity, philosophy, and identity as she reflects on 20 years of Heidi Merrick.
As you approach the 20-year anniversary of your label, what does this milestone represent for you creatively and personally?
Heidi Merrick:
I honestly never thought I’d get here. Truly. For me, the biggest milestone is that I’ve built and kept my business — fully owned, no investment, no skipping seasons — and I’m still interested creatively. I still feel like I haven’t said everything I want to say.
People see me as a diligent, ambitious worker, but I see myself as this distracted, inspired artist. So the fact that I’ve stayed with it, that it’s kept my attention for 20 years? That surprises me.
This mark — 20 years — has made me realize how much I love my art. Not just fashion as art, but the act of trying to make each collection speak back to you. It took this long for me to understand: Oh, this is my life’s work.
Was there a moment when that realization really hit you?
Heidi Merrick:
Yes — recently in New York. I was staying uptown near the park, walking one morning after doing an interview with a small local magazine. Nothing major, but something the interviewer said stuck with me.
I suddenly thought: I wish I could tell my 18-year-old self wandering this city that some of the most glamorous women in the world would wear my dresses. That my designs would end up on magazine covers. That the little nuances I thought were funny or sweet would eventually pay off.
I always had confidence, but I don’t think I fully believed it. And now that I’m here, I do.
Your brand embodies what many describe as “effortless California luxury.” How do you evolve that aesthetic while staying true to your roots?
Heidi Merrick:
First, I hate the word “effortless.” I tell my team never to use it. Nothing is effortless — not running a brand, not making a garment hang perfectly, not getting dressed in the morning. There is effort, and I actually think effort is beautiful.
What people interpret as effortless is really considered. It’s the invisible work: the fabric, the construction, the fit. That’s what creates ease.
California luxury, to me, is about clarity. Intention. The landscape, the light, the way women move here. I stay true to my roots by staying true to my life. And I evolve the aesthetic by refining it without pretending any of it happens without effort.
Do you have a favorite person who has worn your clothes, or a moment that stands out?
Heidi Merrick:
For me, it’s never about a specific person. It’s a visceral moment — when I see a woman look in the mirror and actually feel beautiful.
I’ve spent so many years fitting women, and I’ve always tried to tell them: give a little more to yourself. Dress just a tiny bit more. You know how girls say, “These jeans are cute, this is enough”? I love encouraging that extra inch of intention — that moment when she sees herself and lights up.
That’s my favorite part. Every single time.
What has surprised you most about building your brand independently for two decades?
Heidi Merrick:
That I could actually do it. No investors, no shortcuts. Just persistence — and the fact that I still love it. I love my team, I love making things, I love this world I get to exist in.
It’s not a blessing — that word feels cheesy — but it’s something that has soothed my soul. To realize: there really is such a thing as a life’s work, and I’m living mine.
Looking back, what advice would you give your younger self at the beginning of this journey?
Heidi Merrick:
I’d tell her:
The small, strange, uniquely-you things — keep them. They’re going to matter.
I’d tell her the best women in the world will wear her clothes, that she’ll design pieces that say exactly what she wanted to say.
And I’d tell her not to rush. It all comes — in its own time.
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